Engine/Clutch/Gearbox

Being Ford or Rover components, there's nothing unusual about the installation. Both are sturdy units which well looked after can run up high mileages.

Chassis

The chassis is a steel tubular spaceframe. When new, the chassis tubes were coated with a protective plastic film. This does wear off over time and the chassis can rust as a result. Check underneath the car as this could be expensive to remedy. The early S1 and S2 cars didn't have the mud guards fitted into the front wheel arches and can suffer more than later cars. The chassis around the front wheels is visible with the bonnet open.

Beware of 'crash-repaired' cars. If unsure of the safety of a crash repaired car call the factory to check that the recommended procedures have been followed.

Suspension

Being a hard riding sports car, the suspension will take a real pounding and needs checking carefully. Check the ride height. If the bonnet scrapes the ground when opened, then the car is sitting too low. (The ride height is pretty low anyway and the exhaust will have been bumped!). Check the bearings and the state of the shock absorbers.

Interior

Check the interior of the car for water damage. This may take the form of stains on the upholstery or the veneer peeling off the switch panel. Lift the carpets and feel for damp. The veneer strips on the doors can also come off or apart with age, but are easily replaced.

Roof

Unlike traditional convertibles, the design of the roof with the fixed overhead panels means that leaking direct from the roof is rare. You're more likely to get water in the car from poorly sealed windows. The windows can get out of alignment, but it's relatively easy to remedy by removing the door trim and adjusting the mechanism.

Electrics

The S1's and S2's suffered from burning out relays in the steering column, although by now these are likely to have been sorted out.

Windscreen

Early cars suffered from the laminated screen turning opaque due to water ingress. A replacement screen costs in the region of £200.

Bodywork

Check the alignment of the panels as you would with a 'normal' car. Don't be put off if the bonnet doesn't line up. They move over time and can be adjusted back into position.

The GRP can crack or craze from minor bumps. That needn't be a problem in itself, but check the chassis for signs of damage.

Cooling System

All TVR's have a reputation for overheating so beware! Some owners may have fitted manual override switches to the cooling fan. This isn't necessarily a cause for concern, it just ensures that the fan can be turned on even if the thermostat fails. I have heard stories of the fan being wired up permanently. This is not a good sign and as well as masking a potential overheating problem, it can cause damage by not letting the engine warm sufficiently.

Obviously, check that the fan does come on when the engine is hot.

Exhaust

It hangs below an already low car, and is likely to have taken a bump. Check the front section at the base of the manifolds as this may be dented. Check that the manifolds aren't blowing around the gasket.